View Full Version : Cosworth CSR260 Duratec rebuild/swap into S3

January 13th, 2016, 05:24 PM
I finally have some time to start on my long awaited Cosworth 2.3L Duratec rebuild. I bought an engine that came from a CSR260 which had spun a rod bearing on #2 cylinder. It looks like low oil was the cause. For reference, it's a base CSR260 engine, consisting of:

Cosworth 12.0 CR forged pistons
Cosworth rings
Cosworth/Carillo rods
Cosworth HD oil pump
Cosworth/Titan internal 2 stage dry sump
Modine oil cooler, High flow fuel injectors and rail
Cosworth CNC head (not the race extruded full CNC head)
Cosworth 2nd stage cams, race valve springs
Cosworth light weight flywheel
Cosworth/Caterham 2 piece roller barrels

Some pics to start
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c87/vstryker/Cosworth Duratec Rebuild/20150828_160512_zpsezn0vz6n.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c87/vstryker/Cosworth Duratec Rebuild/20150828_160530_zpsfkt7pfbx.jpg

I started disassembly right away to see what else was damaged and needs replacing
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c87/vstryker/Cosworth Duratec Rebuild/20150831_130903_zpsl4jehphq.jpg

Here is the big end of #2, you can see it scored the journals on the crankshaft:
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c87/vstryker/Cosworth Duratec Rebuild/20150908_134922_zpsxoblnjpw.jpg

The other rod bearings were about to fail as well
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c87/vstryker/Cosworth Duratec Rebuild/20150909_152708 rod3_zps1feigfyi.jpg

Took the head apart:
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c87/vstryker/Cosworth Duratec Rebuild/20151221_132314_zpsinsigila.jpg

Quite a bit of carbon deposit for 9000 miles, although probably 50% of it were hard track miles:
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c87/vstryker/Cosworth Duratec Rebuild/20151221_145023_zpsecvtxcrc.jpg

Pistons were a bit dirty with some debris on it, but not bad overall:
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c87/vstryker/Cosworth Duratec Rebuild/20150909_152745_zpsfd1pyzhh.jpg

January 13th, 2016, 05:35 PM
After close inspection, I'm replacing:

Cosworth rod
Cosworth rings
New 2.3 ranger crankshaft
All new main and rod bearings
ARP main, rod, head studs
New friction washers and bolts
All gaskets and seals

I'm also sending off everything to be cleaned including head, block, dry sump pan. The other 3 rods and pistons will be fluxed and checked for cracks. The same machine shop is also honing the cylinder walls. Once I receive the crankshaft, I'll have the whole rotating assembly balanced.

As far as swap parts go I need:

Engine mounts/brackets
Duratec headers (will reuse my existing Titanium ammo can)
Dry sump tank
Modify the hard oil lines on existing dry sump pan
Duratec bell housing with slave/release bearing
New clutch/pressure plate
New water rail
Caterham engine harness
Uprated fuel pump
Oil catch can
Throttle cable... and probably lots of other little things I can't think of right now

January 13th, 2016, 07:10 PM
I still have that water rail if you need one


January 14th, 2016, 09:30 PM
Very cool to see one of these apart. Good luck with your build.

If you have any need/desire for the Caterham dry sump bell housing setup let me know. I have all the parts that come with the CSR chassis kit (no oil pan). I also have a full CSR exhaust system (head to muffler, w/cat). I was intending on using some of it for my build, but let me know what you might be able to use.


January 15th, 2016, 01:51 PM
Some parts have arrived:

Cosworth rod & piston rings
Clevite H rod & main bearings
ARP fasteners all around
New 2.3 Ranger crankshaft
Intake, exhaust seals along with other gaskets, seals
Cam bolts, crank pulley bolt & friction washers




I sent off the new crank, flywheel, clutch cover, and pulley to have it balanced. Also, the rods, pistons, rings, wrist pins will be balanced as well. The pistons and rods set were about 1-2 grams off from another which is within cosworth tolerances but Im expecting them to be within less than a gram once done.

I'll pick up the cleaned block & head this weekend. Then the bell housing & dry sump tank should be arriving next week. Still trying to see if there's an easy button for the engine loom, I don't think I have the time and patience to rewire & repin.

I thought about having my 6speed rebuilt since it will be out with the engine. 2nd & 3rd can be stiff and I sometimes grind 3rd when shifting too fast. Anyone local can do it? if not, I'll do it myself but where to get the syncros & stuff for the caterham 6speed?

January 15th, 2016, 02:20 PM
Very interested, I sent you a pm. Hopefully you have the elusive black swirl tower that goes on top of the csr bell housing

Very cool to see one of these apart. Good luck with your build.

If you have any need/desire for the Caterham dry sump bell housing setup let me know. I have all the parts that come with the CSR chassis kit (no oil pan). I also have a full CSR exhaust system (head to muffler, w/cat). I was intending on using some of it for my build, but let me know what you might be able to use.


Doug Liedblad
January 15th, 2016, 09:27 PM

You do know about what moose calls the 'jesus' bolt that holds the cam gear onto the crank?

Tighten to some high value, and 1/4 turn more if I recall.

The bolt is a one time use.


January 16th, 2016, 02:25 PM
Yes, I got that crank bolt/washer. I spoke with Kevin, "Papak" on the boards & he said they it was fairly easy to tighten it up. He mentioned he used the timing bolt to secure the crank at TDC, tightened to 75ftlbs & another 90 degrees... All pushing against the timing bolt. Hopefully it's as easy as it sounds because I've read that it sometimes require 2 ppl with a special 3 ft extension tool.


You do know about what moose calls the 'jesus' bolt that holds the cam gear onto the crank?

Tighten to some high value, and 1/4 turn more if I recall.

The bolt is a one time use.


Doug Liedblad
January 16th, 2016, 05:54 PM
I would not use the timing bolt method.

I have done this a couple of times, always with two people. One holding the crank by the flywheel, the other on the wrench.

It is not difficult doing it this way.

I will come down and help if you need it.


January 16th, 2016, 06:49 PM
I am with Doug here. I read posts from several people who bent the timing pin even when tightening the cam bolts not the crank bolt (which has much higher torque). If you bend it really good you may have to cut it off from the inside to get out again. That is for a Zetec but I guess the same applies to a Duratec. For my engine I blocked the flywheel with a clamp while tightening that bolt.

January 17th, 2016, 09:47 AM
I might take you up on your offer Doug, thanks. You guys are right, I had doubts about the timing bolt being strong enough & ill block the flywheel as well.

I would not use the timing bolt method.

I have done this a couple of times, always with two people. One holding the crank by the flywheel, the other on the wrench.

It is not difficult doing it this way.

I will come down and help if you need it.


January 18th, 2016, 08:28 PM
Got the block, head and rotating assembly back today. Everything was cleaned and cylinders freshly honed



New crank balanced and journals micro polished:

The pistons, rings, wrist pins were all balanced to within +-0.25 grams!!! That's right, a 1/4 of a gram. I weighed them all and according to my scale they were exactly the same

Same story with the rods, both the big end and wrist pin end were balanced separately to keep it perfectly balanced, and all weigh exactly the same:

Check out the flywheel after being balanced, I thought it was around 9 pounds but the scale says otherwise

I fitted the new rings onto the recently cleaned pistons with reference to the orientation of each ring as set by the Cosworth manual

They did an amazing job of cleaning the old valves. I was surprised they got it this clean as it looked brand new

Here is how they looked before, more on why I think it was so full of carbon deposits later.

January 18th, 2016, 08:30 PM
Hayden, I was gone take it off your hands but after seeing how Magnus had to cut a few tabs off of the head, I hesitated and decided to go the CSR route instead.

I still have that water rail if you need one


January 19th, 2016, 06:20 PM
Yes- its a bit of a challenge to fit that part- definitely not plug and play

January 22nd, 2016, 10:33 AM
Taking a close look at the intake and exhaust ports on the head, I noticed that the casting isn't as clean as it should be. I know the only machine work Cosworth did was CNC the combustion cambers and maybe a slight port. After all, this is not the full on CNC extruded race head that they offer, where everything is CNC ported. So I took the dremel out and started to work. I was extremely careful not to enlarge or change the shape on any of the ports as this will affect the flow. I basically ground down and smoothed out the casting by polishing it slightly, I would say maybe equivalent of a mild stage 1 port and polish. I tried my best to make sure whatever I did on one port, that it was even all the way across. Even if it didn't make a difference in the flow, it sure as hell looked much nicer after a few hours of elbow grease.

Before and after:


Finished exhaust ports

Close up of CNC combustion camber

Doug Liedblad
January 22nd, 2016, 10:39 AM

Looks good to me. Current wisdom is you don't want them mirror smooth like in the old days. It adds turbulence or some such.

YMMV and this opinion is worth what you paid for it.


January 22nd, 2016, 11:02 AM
Next up was assembling the head. Installed new valve stem oil seals on both intake and exhaust. Reinstalled oversized 31mm exhaust and 36mm intake valves. I heard Cosworth says you don't really need to lap new valves onto their seat. But since this is a rebuild, it was an easy decision to grind and lap the valves onto the seat to ensure a good tight seal. Perhaps that is why there were so much carbon deposits on top of the valves when I first took the head apart, maybe it wasn't sealing as tightly as it should be from the factory.

A bit of grinding and rolling the lapping tool. Didn't take me long, maybe 5 minutes per valve.

Continued with head assembly, this tool makes it so easy. After the valve stem oil seals went in, then it was the valves, valve springs, retainers and their locks. Oh yea, I used graphite moly assembly lube for the head.

After a few hours, the head was complete minus the cams. When I took the head apart, I made sure I put the same tappets in the same exact place as I did not change the cams or ground new seats so the lash should be the same. A quick lash check on a few and I called it a day.

February 16th, 2016, 08:18 PM
Ok, time for a little update:

After completing the head, I started working on the bottom end. Installed pistons with new rings:

New mains and thrust bearings installed into block, along with crankshaft. I did not use the plastigauge to measure the tolerances between the mains and and journals, I just used a micrometer instead since they were both new and each was well within the middle of the specs. Torqued in sequence of 20, 40, then 60 ftlbs with arp studs. Reading up on other builds, I know that a lot of people have trouble with the studs getting in the way of the dry sump windage tray. To solve this, you have to make sure the studs and nuts are flush as in the picture. I did a dry mounting of the dry sump pan and all is good.


When it came to installing the pistons and rods to the crank, all was smooth until I came across this:


I had ordered 4 sets of Clevite CB1838H and 3 of them were the correct ones, the other was something totally different, even though the box says CB1838H on all of them. It was wider by a few millimetres and had a notch in it, needless to say, I sent them right back and Amazon had the correct ones sent out in 3 days. With the correct big end shells, again arp bolts on the connecting rods, the piston assembly was complete.


February 17th, 2016, 01:57 PM
I was finally able to get the missing pieces of my cosworth/Titan CSR dry sump. It is a 2 stage system with an integrated bell housing tank & swirl tower. Originally, i had planned to use an R400 bell housing & an external dry sump system because I could not source the swirl tower. Luckily a member who built a CSR chassis but is going with a different engine had one for sale. It is quite a bit more expensive but the whole unit is nicely integrated.

It uses the uprated oil pump and a scavenging pump, which is driven from the same oil pump gear. The main pressure pump is on the right while the gears to drive the scavenge pump is on the bottom. There are 2 scavenge suctions on the pan, one in the front & one in the the back.


The scavenge pump sucks oil from the pan & discharges it to the top of the swirl tower. The tower sits on top of the bell tank assembly and aerates & swirls the oil downwards to the tank. From the bottom of the bell tank, there is a suction line that goes to pressure pump which gets oil to the engine.

Here is the pan all bolted up, the hard oil line connections all have double o rings. From this pic, the left is the suction to the main oil pressure pump & the left is the discharge of the scavenge pump going to the swirl tower.


A pic of the 2 one-time use friction washers. One on the inside and other on the outside.


The bell tank housing side. Again suction to main pump is on the left while right is the discharge of the scavenge pump.


Another reason why I went with the CSR setup is that the slave & release bearing is also integrated and makes for a very clean install.

February 17th, 2016, 02:18 PM
Special shout out to Bruce at Beachman Racing for helping me with the build so far. A wealth of knowledge in all things Caterham, especially CSR related. First class outstanding service! Bruce not only quickly replies to my countless emails, calls & questions, but the prices on the parts he has are very reasonable as well. He's also currently helping me with the crossover loom.

February 17th, 2016, 05:45 PM
Oh man, this is all so pretty. Are you sure you really want to drive the car and mess it all up? :icon_friendly_wink:

February 25th, 2016, 07:01 PM
Cams, and cams gears are in. Then it was the timing chain, crank gear, chain guides, and tensioner.



To set the timing, you have to set pistons 1, 4 at TDC using a timing pin that user Papak was kind enough to lend me. Basically a bolt with the correct length that when screwed in near the bottom of the block will set the Pistons 1,4 at TDC as you rotate the crank clockwise until it hits a flat section on the crankshaft balancer. You can see the bolt in purple touching the perfectly flat part of the crank.


Next was bolting up the front cover and tightening of the crank bolt. I didn't have a second set of hands and it took me about 10 mins of sweat, tears & lots of cussing to finally get the last 90 degrees on the crank bolt. I had the flywheel locked on the back end, with the cams locked, the timing pin in & a 3 foot cheater bar. I was warned and indeed it was a tough mother... but nothing a few ice cold beers couldn't cure.


February 25th, 2016, 11:32 PM
Looking good!

March 12th, 2016, 07:59 AM
Had some time to finally install the Titan/Caterham 2 piece roller barrels along with the CF shroud and trumpets.


The pair of cylinder 3,4 intakes have to be balanced with those of cylinders 1,2 using a 6mm blank rod when fully closed. The opening is actually on the backside of the roller barrels. I love how there is absolutely no restriction when the throttle is wide open but many have said these can be a little trickier to tune.


Make sure to locktite the small bolts inside the shroud to prevent them from coming loose and being sucked into the intake.

High flow Cosworth injectors & coils were next.



March 12th, 2016, 08:10 AM
The idler pulley, alternator, water pump pulley & belt all went on witHouten a hitch.

As far as the engine block is concerned, it is pretty much complete.


The engine block is pretty much complete so I turned my attention to the bell housing & swirl tank.

Upon closer inspection & dry fitting of the parts, I found that the swirl tower top cap was missing 2 ports. Titan/Caterham must have forgotten to drill & tap the 2 ports on the ends of the cap as shown here. The 2 ports are from the valve cover inlet & outlet to the oil catch can.


March 12th, 2016, 08:40 AM
I tried to see if Caterham could help out & possibly send me a new cap with the ports drilled and tapped but since the part is currently out of production, it could take several months. Luckily, Bruce was able to send me a few good pictures of the cap & from looking at it over & over, I was able to figure out the different flow paths as there are several other ports that are connected & how deep & big to drill.

After measuring the correct drill size, obtaining the M16 x 2.00 tap, & a few shots of Lagavulin later I built up enough liquid courage to mount it on my drill press.


Drilled and tapped:



From the above picture, the top port had to be drilled that it opens up to both of the top 2 larger holes. The bottom port has to go through the 2 smaller holes on the bottom and all the way to the middle port... but without drilling through to the top port if that makes sense.

Waiting for some parts to move forward but does anyone have good experiences with Radtec radiators from the uk? I'm looking at this one:


Seems like they make some nice rads, or if anyone knows a good multi-pass radiator that can be had here in the states?

June 17th, 2016, 11:27 AM
I've been away for work in the last 3 months and I'm glad to be working on the car again.

Radtec Extreme radiator ordered along with the MBE 9A4 ecu. SBD says they will include a base map which is usually good to get it started. But since we bascially have the same motor, our generous forum member Sean sent me his map which I will try until I can get it on the dyno. Thanks Sean! Also received a few things from Bruce, and my surge tank setup is here as well.

Prepping to pull the old motor out, I had the car on jack stands while I disconnected the exhaust, primaries, electical conectors including battery cables and grounds, coolant hoses. Next, drained the oil, transmission fluid and coolant.

Continued by removing the old radiator & fan, disconnected clutch hose. I broke the speedo sensor & speedo gear while trying to carefully remove it. Took out steering column, fuel line, throttle cable, more hoses & connectors.

With the engine being supported by the hoist, I removed engine and transmission mounts. Playing around with the angle, pushing & pulling here & there I was able to get the engine & tranny out in one piece.



I will weigh the 2 engines & hope it's a 40-50 pound savings as others have mentioned.

June 17th, 2016, 04:20 PM
Cool! Looking good....

I would consider insulating the tunnel and foot well walls inside while the tranny is out. Made a big difference for my car to keep things cooler. But looking at the picture I suspect your car may already have that.

June 18th, 2016, 10:41 AM
Good suggestions as I already had an idea of insulating it with heat reflective gold foil to bling up the engine bay a little. I also had to lengthen some wires in order to move it to the drivers side. I didn't want the hot exhaust headers to melt the wires on the passenger side.

Here's after cleaning up the routing of the horn as well as placement of the external reservoirs.


Cool! Looking good....

I would consider insulating the tunnel and foot well walls inside while the tranny is out. Made a big difference for my car to keep things cooler. But looking at the picture I suspect your car may already have that.

June 18th, 2016, 12:04 PM
Ran into a problem though as I was looking at mating the new bell housing & tranny together. The new bell housing have female threads and so does the tranny. Looks like I have to cut and modify the tranny mounting holes so that I can either use allen head bolts from the tranny side or use studs & nuts. Either way, I'd have to cut & grind the ends of the tranny casting mounts off. The 2 bottom mounting holes look easy to do but the top 2 look too tight. Any ideas on how or what to use to cut/grind?



June 18th, 2016, 12:18 PM
Are you sure you want to cut the tranny side? If you go deep enough for a bolt head you may tap an oil well. But maybe the wall is thick enough?

Another disadvantage is that you can not get to the bolt heads with the tranny installed. If you make the bolts loosen from the bellhousing side you can remove the engine by itself which is sometimes much more convenient without the transmission oil spilling. Well at least that can be done for my combination (Zetec & Birkin S3).

June 18th, 2016, 12:59 PM
I can not go thru on the bell housing side as that is inside where the oil tank is. It's got double o rings on the 4 fittings with the female threads. It would be a major pain to disassemble the whole bell housing tank to just remove the engine alone as it has like 20 little allen head bolts. Not to mention I'd need to figure out a way to liquid seal the bolts from the bell housing tank side, I guess the engine will always come out with the tranny now.

Also, I will use an allen head bolt, slightly smaller head

June 18th, 2016, 01:28 PM
I see. Looks like you have no choice then...

Doug Liedblad
June 18th, 2016, 05:18 PM
What have others in the UK done and what does the maker recommend?

June 18th, 2016, 05:53 PM
What is the thread size? M10 x 1.5 or M10 x 1.25 ?

June 19th, 2016, 07:44 AM
M10 x 1.5

What is the thread size? M10 x 1.5 or M10 x 1.25 ?

June 19th, 2016, 11:07 AM
M10 x 1.5

Ah...too bad.

If it would have been M10x1.25 then you could have used an M8 x 1.25 Helicoil on the bellhousing side and drill through the tranny side threads with an 8mm bit. No grinder or dremel work and the head is substantially smaller.
M8x1.25 - 12.9 grade bolts would be ample strong to keep it together.

June 21st, 2016, 07:46 AM
I weighed both engines with the alternator, starter, and oil pan mounted. It did not include exhaust headers, flywheel, or any fluids, so basically the short block. And the verdict is....

Zetec 2.0 SVT : 255 pounds
Duratec 2.3 CSR260: 220 pounds

Zetec aluminum flywheel, clutch, pressure plate: 26 pounds (Stock flywheel alone is about 24 pounds)

Duratec lightweight flywheel, clutch, pressure plate: 19 pounds

So all in, I will be saving a little over 40 pounds which was as expected.

June 27th, 2016, 09:23 AM
The good news is that I have modified the "boss" by cutting/drilling them into "ears"and now an allen head bolt will fit from the transmisson ears to the the CSR bell housing.

While at it, I I decided to tear down the tranny to clean, inspect and replace all the seals, bearings and maybe some syncros if need be. I will probably do a separate write up as it is a whole other job in itself.


July 9th, 2016, 12:54 AM
The MONSTER ENGINE is finally in!

With the transmission complete and all bolted back together, I bolted it up to the bell housing tank and engine. Using an engine hoist in the front and a jack on the bottom of the transmission as it was going in, it took a bit of adjustments before I could install the 2 engine mounts and rear tranny mount.


It was a very tight fit with the 2.3L in a narrow S3 chassis but I'm very happy to report that it all fits.


July 9th, 2016, 12:55 AM
Now it was time to fill in the old exhaust hole on the left, and cut a new one on the right. Used the existing one as a template for the new one. Bought a piece of aluminum louvers on eBay, painted it, shaped it to the bottom contours of the body and riveted it.

Here's the new exhaust hole with the manifolds mocked up.


I was a bit nervous about cutting the big hole for the intake at first but starting with a small hole and working my way by enlarging it 0.5" at a time, it eventually came out looking pretty good. I was surprised how well it turned out by just using a 3" cutoff wheel with a smaller dremel.


Finished off the edges with edge trimmer for a cleaner look. Here you can also see the old exhaust hole covered up.


July 21st, 2016, 07:46 PM
This week I finally got the nice shiny radtec radiator in. Decided to use rubber hoses since it was alot easier to source the ones with the correct bends. This extreme version core is fairly thick at 68mm and should provide plenty of cooling.


The black metal return line on the left is from the CSR setup. I made a new mount to raise the expansion bottle higher, hopefully it's high enough as it is at the max height and it barely clears the nose cone. Modification to the oil filler cap was also required to clear the bonnet. I just took the old plastic cap, grounded it flat and expoxied an aluminum cap on it reducing its height y about 18mm. The small allen key allows it to be opened and closed like normal.


On the right of the expansion bottle is the oil catch can/breather. There was not enough space on the back on the engine because the plastic can is too tall so that was the only logical place. I don't like how it's mounted with just hose clamps but I'll see how it holds up or if a sturdier mount is needed.


I cleaned up the exhaust headers with some 3M scotch brite and had a hell of a time fitting the secondary to the primaries. My fingers and hands are still so sore trying to persuade the tubes to move just 2-3mm, probably wasted a good hour. Right now I have the old caterham exhaust can but I modified my old titanium raceco can to fit as well. This exhaust system is only 2.25" and is probably ok for now but in the near future will have to get a custom headers with at least 2.5 or 2.75" to release this engine's full potential.

Now the only thing I'm waiting for is the engine harness. Bruce, if you're reading this, please send me that harness anytime...

July 22nd, 2016, 11:24 PM
You're almost there, Van!

When I was getting mine together, I was advised to ditch the CSR water outlet and tube and replace it with the straight tube and two hoses set-up instead, due to the former's tendency to fail at the o-ring seal between the water outlet and the water rail due to inconsistent thermal expansion between the two. I took that advice, and haven't had a problem there. I'm sure it'll be fine as you have it for a good long time (seems to work well enough for most CSRs), but if you ever have an issue there, this might be something to consider.

485 water rail, P/N 5CC007A: http://caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=5222

C400 water outlet, P/N YD8100: http://caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=2792 (gasket should be same; I believe Burton carries both outlet and gasket)

Best of luck, sir. Car is looking good!

July 24th, 2016, 03:02 PM

As I recall, there is an article buried in the one of the UK engine builder websites (maybe Raceline?) discussing exhaust system diameters and design, particularly as related to Duratecs. As I recall, primary diameter is more closely related to exhaust valve diameter. I'll try to dig it out.


July 25th, 2016, 12:59 PM
Thanks for the part numbers Sean, I'll go that route should the current one start to leak.

Also, KevinI'm very interested if you can pull up that article on exhaust diameters. I know that SBD gives you a spec sheet on an exhaust manifold if you get an engine thru them regarding all the diameters, and lengths off each run.

September 28th, 2016, 10:06 AM
Itís been a while so I thought Iíd give this thread an update.

After an excruciating wait, I finally received the Caterham Duratec R400 harness along with the crossover harness to mate it to my existing chassis plug since they are different. Luckily, I had the help of Bruce Beachman to build me the crossover. Using the new engine harness, I also opted for the Multi Function Relay Unit (MFRU), and a new electric oil pressure sensor to keep the install clean and easy as possible. A few minor modifications had to be done as described below in order to get everything to fit.

Before I could hook up everything, modifications were made to the existing fuel pump wiring since I was installing a secondary Bosch 044 pump inside of the fuel surge pot in the back. Using a wiring guide from Nathan at Thomas Vintage racing, I moved 2 wires around at the Fuel pump fuse block, swap out the 15A fuse for a 20A, and upgrade the wiring to 12 gauge in order to handle the current draws of 2 pumps. To incorporate the existing inertial switch, I tapped the new fuel pump power supply and ground into the output of the inertial switch going to the existing in tank pump. This way, I still had protection and the switch would kill off both pumps.

2 liter surge tank, FPR behind passenger boot, might move FPR to engine bay later on:

I didnít realize that I had an older OBD plug until Bruce mentioned that it had to be repined in order for me to have CAN communication and able to flash with the new MBE 9A4 ECU. Repining it was very easy after we got some guidance from SBD. All I had to do was remove the unused pin 13 and move pin 2 to 6 and move pin 10 to 14. Pin 6 and 14 are the CAN High and Low which I traced back to the ECU.

Pin out for obd connector:

The new engine harness had a different lambda plug than my old one and instead of getting a new O2 sensor, I just opted to rewire my old one into the harness. From the electrical diagrams in the build manual, I was able to interpolate and match it with the existing lambda sensor.

The fuel injector plugs were also different. I have green EV1 type injectors that came with the motor while the harness was made for EV6 type. A simple adapter bought on Ebay for a few bucks solved this issue.

September 28th, 2016, 10:50 AM
Mounted the battery, ecu and mfru both in front of the passenger.

Complete engine bay:

Filled the cooling system with distilled water and water wetter. Living in SoCal I opted for the water plus water wetter because it didn't get cold enough here. Took about 6.5-7 liters.

Installed oil filter, opened the valve cover and filled the main engine block with 3 liters of oil making sure to lubricate the valve train. Another 3 liters went into the dry sump system via the swirl tower.

With the inertial switch disconnected, I cranked the engine using the starter trying to register oil pressure. After about 15 seconds, I saw 2 bars and hooked up the inertial switch. Primed the pump a few times and set the FPR at 55psi. There was a small leak in the return line but was easily fixed by tightening up the fittings.

Fingers crossed, I pushed the start button and after 3-4 seconds... the engine bursts into life! I was ecstatic! It had the base map from SBD loaded and since I couldn't get my laptop to install the drivers for Easimap and the cable, I couldn't connect to the ecu. Not wanting to wait, I slowly backed her out of the garage and tried to drive around the block. Of course as soon as I gave it gas, it would stumble and stall with huge fireballs and backfire from the exhaust and intake. It already late so I limped her back inside and called it a night...

September 28th, 2016, 11:16 AM
Couldn't sleep all night so I woke up early and was actually able to install Easimap 6 along with the correct drivers for the cable. Hooked it up to the ecu and right away I saw 2 faults... the 1st being the TPS, which was pegged wide open and another for Barometric pressure fault. I don't know exactly what the Barometric fault is but I quickly took out the TPS only to find this:


Found the Ford TPS on Amazon which was $20 cheaper than the dealership, who did not have it in stock, and Amazon would ship it by by end of the day. No brainer decision there. By 6pm, the new TPS was at my door. Bolted it up, and using Easimap, calibrated it to 4.60 volts as per procedure. Here's the second time starting it:


September 28th, 2016, 06:31 PM
Congratulations! Great progress.

As for the TPS, I had two of them fail and decided at some point to install a sealed Hall effect TPS. No problem since but not exactly cheap at GBP108. If that is something you want to do, do it before tuning the engine. The Hall TPS has a slightly different response than the wiper pot.

October 11th, 2016, 04:47 PM
Been playing around on Easimap for over a week and I think I finally like where it's at. Our local MBE tunner guru recently moved so while waiting to find a decent tunner who knows their way around the MBE 9A4, I played with 3 different maps, the SBD base map that I received, the Cosworth 260hp base, and Sean's CSR260 map. Sean's and the Cosworth map were similar but his map was more refined and smoother.

I hooked up my friend's wide band O2 sensor, air fuel gauge and made a ton of runs while basically making very small changes to the SBD base map with reference to the other 2 maps. This also helped with breaking in the engine the hard way... progressively loading the engine starting from 4000-7500 in increments of 500rpms. After a few days and about 50 miles, I did the first oil change. Didn't see anything unusual or metal bits so I was happy. By then my modified map was somewhere between the SBD and the Cosworth/Sean's map. This will do for now until I can get a real tuner to look at it.

Some minor issues were a bad oil temperature and pressure senders. Also, for some reason, my fan doesn't come on when it's being controlled by thy ecu. It works just fine when it's hooked up the old way where the switch in the radiator turns it on off, so I will have to take a closer look at that. There is alot of heat generated from the headers so i wrapped it, hopefully it keeps th engine bay a little cooler.



The 6 speed that I tore apart is much smoother and the power after 4000rpms... sheshh it's ridiculous! 4th gear seriously feels like my old 2nd and it pulls as hard from 3000 rpms to as high as I dare take it in every gear. The new power scares me a bit as the scenery quickly blurs every time I step on the throttle. With that, I think it's fair to say my build is complete. I thought I'd be done by June but like all ambitious projects, with unforseen delays and waiting for parts, I'm glad I took the time to think it through. Finally, a big thank you to some of the board members and vendors for all their help.

October 17th, 2016, 06:36 AM
Very nice, congrats. The surge tank is pretty. What was the motivation behind adding it?


October 18th, 2016, 07:25 AM
Very nice, congrats. The surge tank is pretty. What was the motivation behind adding it?


To prevent fuel starvation during high load cornering. I've heard many 7's with the stock fuel tank having this problem which leads to leaning out and damaging the engine. A fuel cell or baffled tank was more than I was willing to spend at the time so I opted for the 2 liter surge tank. I have the same setup on my other track cars and the fuel pressure is rock solid even with less than 1/8 tank.

Doug Liedblad
October 18th, 2016, 09:10 AM
.............on my other track cars ...........

How many track cars have you?

October 18th, 2016, 08:11 PM
Oops I meant car, now that the 7 is done, the Exige is slowly turning back to a more streetable car


Doug Liedblad
October 19th, 2016, 04:35 PM
Only one extra? Still very nice.