Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 38

Thread: Fuel pump: source?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    San Jose
    Posts
    934

    Question Fuel pump: source?

    Replaced fuel filter (and battery - new Odyssey PC625). Fuel pressure still iffy, so looking for a source for a suitable replacement fuel pump now. Cost seems similar for in-tank replacement vs. external, and I see no other great advantage to one over the other, so it seems a suitable in-tank replacement pump would be the most obvious path forward. Happy to hear opposing opinions. :)

    Walbro GSS340 (or GSS341, GSS342, f20000169 - all functionally equivalent, I believe):
    230 lph@60psi (13.5V)
    1-year warranty
    ~$125-$130 base price with sock, hose, clamps, etc.

    Deatsch Works DW301:
    275 lph@60psi (13.5V)
    3-year warranty
    $169 base price with sock, hose, clamps, etc.
    Both of these pumps seem suitable as in-tank replacements. I assume with either, the sock, wires, hose, clamps, etc. will also be required, right? Again, opinions welcome. :)


    edit -- I went with the following:

    Deatsch Works DW201:
    225 lph@60psi (13.5V)
    3-year warranty
    $99 base price with sock, hose, clamps, etc.
    -- see posts 6, 13, 14, and 15 below for further details.
    Last edited by Sean; June 27th, 2012 at 11:37 AM.
    | | Sean

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Pasadena, CA
    Posts
    2,130

    Default

    I know in-tank pumps are the trend but I see some disadvantages:
    - in-tank pump usually rely on being immersed in gas for cooling (ask me how I got stranded with my Hyundai in Utah). You can not run gas too low on a hot day or the pump will just shut down.
    - takes up a little of scarce tank capacity
    - If you have a fuel cell, you can install another filter between tank and external pump to prevent it from foam clogging.
    - if you have to do maintenance or replace the pump, external one is much easier to work on.

    I have an external one on my Seven and it works fine, just a bit noisy.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Newbury Park, CA
    Posts
    2,245

    Default

    Sean

    If you install an external high capacity fuel pump be sure to check the gauge of the wiring, both + and -.

    The stock wire in the Caterham may not be large enough. Morgan kept blowing fuses until we realized his wires were too small for the increased current of the huge fuel pump installed by previous owner.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Posts
    1,622

    Default

    I'm in the market. Do let me know what you find.

    I'm a fan of SBDev.co.uk. All of their kit (English english!) worked a treat (English english!) from day one w/ my original installation, particularly the mapping. Proof was when I changed engines the 1st time and everything ran the same after as before. It was awesome. I'm calling them this week as I've finally finished the wiring project.

    I may be putting it all up for sale in order to (partially :() fund new throttle bodies, injectors, fuel regulator and pump. Sigh.
    Chris
    ------------
    A day you don't go a hundred is a day wasted

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    California
    Posts
    1,942

    Default

    From my upgrade to an external pump:

    http://www.californiacaterhamclub.co...read.php?t=301

    The link to the MSD pump I used is no longer available, but I am fairly certain it is a generic unit sold by other companies. Any pump that has the entry at one end and the exit at the other should work.

    Pics available here: http://imgur.com/a/nVYuA

    /Magnus F.
    Last edited by magnusfeuer; January 3rd, 2012 at 03:46 PM. Reason: Link to album

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    San Jose
    Posts
    934

    Default

    I contacted Deatsch, and they have a new in-tank pump, the DW201, which has the same 30-100psi pressure capability (my Duratec wants 4.3 bar, or 63psi), same size/form factor, and same 3-year warranty as the DW301, but has slightly less flow (still more than adequate for our 4-cyl. engines) and retails at $99 with sock, hose, wire pigtail, and clamps. I'll update this thread with any further developments, but I think this will be the way forward for me - I'll be the guinea pig on this one. No affiliation, etc.

    | | Sean

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    California
    Posts
    1,942

    Default

    Just remember: you need to remap your engine when you are done, unless you want to run very rich at the high end where your map today compensates for the existing pumps declining performance.

    /Magnus F.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    San Jose
    Posts
    934

    Default

    Thanks for the reminder Magnus. Hey, maybe Chris and I can map on the same day - not one, but two MBE ECUs with EasiMap software! ;)
    | | Sean

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    California
    Posts
    1,942

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sean View Post
    Thanks for the reminder Magnus. Hey, maybe Chris and I can map on the same day - not one, but two MBE ECUs with EasiMap software! ;)
    Please - Shoot me now.

    But of course I'll map your cars, as long as I get to bitch about your ECUs while I do it.

    Chris - Any estimates when you will be ready for a session?

    /Magnus F.
    Last edited by magnusfeuer; January 14th, 2012 at 05:49 PM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Posts
    1,622

    Default

    I should be swinging the engine back in the next couple of weeks. Then I'll be applying myself to the plumbing for the oil and water. I need a new collector for the exhaust as my long waiting Ammo can is different from the original. This may mean a trip to Burns. And lastly, the fuel system.

    A month minimum, likely more.
    Chris
    ------------
    A day you don't go a hundred is a day wasted

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Huntington Beach, CA
    Posts
    93

    Default

    Will this turn into another dyno day? I'm hoping to have my SB100 registration done very soon so I'd love to have an excuse to drive my new Locost around.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    San Jose
    Posts
    934

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mca View Post
    Will this turn into another dyno day?
    A mini one, at least. But I am less than keen on attempting the 400 mile drive with rain, so I am actually hoping Chris isn't ready until at least May!
    | | Sean

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    San Jose
    Posts
    934

    Default Update:

    I received the DW201 pump and universal install kit two weeks ago, but was sick last weekend. Took out the old pump yesterday without removing the fuel tank (thanks for the tips, Magnus) and found two issues:
    • the Deatsch pump is a larger diameter than the one in my car
    • the new sock provided will be oriented in the wrong direction





    I am going to either enlarge the I.D. of the plastic carrier to accept the larger diameter pump, or make a new carrier from a suitable material. For the sock, I will contact the distributor tomorrow to see about getting a different sock that will be better suited to my application. I am sure they will have something.

    My photography skills are about in-line with my basketball skills - BAD! :)
    | | Sean

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    San Jose
    Posts
    934

    Default Update 2:

    Enlarged I.D. of plastic carrier by .080" (2mm), and the new pump now fits the plastic carrier just fine. DW make a sock for a 2006-2011 Honda Civic that looks like it should work. I'll give that a try.

    edit -- Just got off the phone with the Deatsch Werks distributor, and they don't have the strainer sock that I thought mike work in stock at the moment. So I'll go to the local NAPA auto parts or equivalent to try to find a suitable one from Airtex or whatever.
    Last edited by Sean; January 30th, 2012 at 02:08 PM. Reason: sock not in stock, dammit
    | | Sean

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    San Jose
    Posts
    934

    Default Update 3:

    Went to my local good auto parts store, Winchester Auto, where the guy behind the counter made it his mission to find the closest possible match to my fuel strainer sock. I ended up with a Airtex FS175, used on a number of Fords, Jaguars, etc., but I remember at the top of the list was Crown Vic 1995-2004. Whatever - looks like it should work. Picked up some crush washers while I was there too, for the fuel banjo bolt. Took one last photo of the pump parts, which I hope to get installed soon.

    | | Sean

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    San Jose
    Posts
    934

    Default Done.

    DW fuel pump installed, and the needle on the fuel pressure gauge went from bouncing around between 45 and 60 with the old pump to a steady and unwavering 85 psi with the new. I adjusted it down to 65 psi, and wondered if maybe the irregular pressure might have been that pulse damper doohickey all along? No matter now.

    So I hurried off to the nearest gas station to fill the tank back up, and then off to the bank. After visiting the ATM, the car would not re-start; the battery sounded completely dead. After driving a total of 2 miles on the brand new battery. Seems I have some electrical demons to chase down now... :rolleyes:
    | | Sean

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    San Jose
    Posts
    934

    Default

    Brand new PC625 battery went from instant, powerful starting of the car to unable to turn the motor over after only 2 miles of driving over a 10-15 minute period. Two young girls gave me a push-start in the bank parking lot, and I went straight home and measured the battery voltage at 11.1 volts. Right after the old battery was replaced, I checked the voltage at the battery with the engine idling and measured 14.something volts. Something drained my brand new battery damn fast.

    I know that when one element of the charging system goes, the others need to be checked: battery, alternator, voltage regulator, fusible link. Anybody have any suggestions what to check first? Electrics are not my thing.
    | | Sean

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Seattle-ish, WA
    Posts
    353

    Default

    Sean, was the engine idling when it measured 11.1 volts? If that's the case, then it sounds like the charging system is out. First check the easy things and make sure the belt is still there and is tensioned properly. If it it is, then I'd pull the alternator and have it checked. Usually the big auto parts chains have the necessary equipment and will test it for free.

    -John
    Westfield SEiW
    2.0L Duratec
    Throttle Steer

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    San Jose
    Posts
    934

    Default

    No John, the 11 volts was just the battery, with the engine off - red multimeter lead to batt. pos. and black lead to engine block. With the battery removed from the car, it gave the same reading. When I checked it with the engine idling, it showed a little over 14 volts at the battery. That was about three weeks ago, just before I changed the fuel pump.

    My engine only has one belt. It is still there. Belt tension is fine. I suppose I'll re-install my newly charged battery and check the voltage at the battery while idling again, and then maybe check it at 2K rpm or so, just for kicks.

    I still can't believe how quickly my <6 week old battery got drained. Something is putting a serious load on the electrical system.
    | | Sean

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Seattle-ish, WA
    Posts
    353

    Default

    I don't think it's a new load on the electrics. When everything is functioning correctly, the battery is used to start the engine and then the alternator takes over to run the electrics and recharge the battery. It sounds like your battery has an issue and isn't taking a charge, or the charging system is at fault and is either not recharging the battery or not supplying enough juice to run the engine without the batteries assistance. In the latter case, that would pull down the battery charge even further since the combined draw of the ECU, ignition, fuel pump, lights, fan, and other assorted bits is pretty big.

    -John
    Westfield SEiW
    2.0L Duratec
    Throttle Steer

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Fuel filter: source?
    By Sean in forum Questions and Answers
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: December 31st, 2011, 06:57 AM
  2. In Tank Fuel Pump Replacement
    By Clark in forum Questions and Answers
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: August 6th, 2008, 09:04 AM
  3. Fuel pump question
    By soareyes in forum Questions and Answers
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: July 19th, 2007, 09:39 PM
  4. Fuel Pump
    By New2 7's in forum Questions and Answers
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: March 11th, 2007, 04:39 PM
  5. Now you too can have an external fuel pump!
    By magnusfeuer in forum For Sale/Wanted
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: April 5th, 2005, 04:15 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •