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Thread: Starting a Duratec build

  1. #21
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    Oct 2014
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    Thanks. I have the engine mostly apart. The head comes off tomorrow. Before I dispose of the original engine harness, are there any connectors/pigtails I should retain? I held on to the crank and cam sensors as well as the oil pressure sensor. The coil is one number higher than the one I got from you but the wires are only 7mm. The fuel rail is rectangular in cross-section but minus the pulse dampener. I'll research the oil pump differences further and get back.

  2. #22
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    I would hold on to the harness until the engine is in and running with the new one.

  3. #23
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    Finally removed the #%*&%^@ fan pulley. It was on so tight that I broke the first puller. Has anyone just cut out the rise in the front cover with a hole saw and welded in an aluminum disk? The disassembly continues tomorrow.

  4. #24
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    I dropped of the engine at Vellios Machine in Gardena this morning. I am having them reassemble the head. That way, they can grind the valve stems as necessary instead of swapping around or replacing buckets. In the end, it's a little less expensive. Crower is grinding the cams today and I should have them by the end of the week (they are San Diego).

    The new Birkins are set up to accept a Subaru R180 differential. If anyone else goes this route, I can provide the necessary torque values and part numbers for seals, etc. Tom provides the correctly modified driveshaft and half shafts.

  5. #25
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    The engine is due back from the machine shop on Friday. I am occupying myself with cleaning up the throttle bodies that I got from Chris. Can anyone provide the ARP part numbers for the rod bolts, main bolts and head bolts for a 2.3l Duratec?

  6. #26
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    San Jose
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    Quote Originally Posted by Papak View Post
    Can anyone provide the ARP part numbers for the rod bolts, main bolts and head bolts for a 2.3l Duratec?
    Not off the top of my head, but a quick search turned up the ARP page listing bolt sets for the 2.3L Duratec. Then searching by the part numbers listed, it's easy to find the sets available at Summit Racing, or similar sites (I'd shy away from eBay and the like for something like this).
    | | Sean

  7. #27
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    You might also call ARP. They have always been very helpful every time I've called. (once)

  8. #28
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    I spoke with them. They offer head and main hardware but not connecting rod bolts. Those will have to come from Cosworth. 2-3 weeks, from across the pond. EDO Performance in Garden Grove is a reseller for Cosworth. Their prices reflect about a 10% discount over the Cosworth list price (eco performance.com).

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Papak View Post
    I spoke with them. They offer head and main hardware but not connecting rod bolts. Those will have to come from Cosworth. 2-3 weeks, from across the pond. EDO Performance in Garden Grove is a reseller for Cosworth. Their prices reflect about a 10% discount over the Cosworth list price (eco performance.com).
    SBD offers high-strength connecting rod bolts for the Duratecs here (bottom of the page, the ones on the right side).
    | | Sean

  10. #30
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    Oct 2014
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    The bottoming taps came in from Grainger this morning. The rod bolts arrived from Cosworth. Still awaiting the main bolts from ARP. Now the block is nearly ready for the final "wash and dry". The machine shop left a couple of "rivet" set bungs in the oil journals in the block. I really want those out before the final cleaning. Just drill them out? They will surely provide replacements. I had to soak the piston squirters in carb cleaner for half an hour to get them to flow well. I am getting close to needing the cam alignment tools and a stretch guage for the rod bolts. Any floating around? When I get everything basically together, I can probably use a hand (and plenty of advice) with installing the cam gears and timing everything. The Crower cams come with 4 degrees of retard ground in for emissions (I wish they had told me before they ground them. I would have had them delete it). We don't need to deal with that so I will most likely need to set up a degree wheel and go through the whole setup procedure. For that, I will need the assistance of someone who has been through the process before. The garage fridge is well stocked with Guinness, etc.

  11. #31
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    Where are you located?

  12. #32
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    Westcheste

  13. #33
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    Guinness, you say? Well, hell, I'm only about a 5-6 hour drive away!
    Sounds like you're making good progress.
    | | Sean

  14. #34
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    I live in Torrance (close to Redondo Beach), and believe I have the alignment tools somewhere.

    /Magnus F.

  15. #35
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    All of the necessary pieces are slowly coming in. I finally got the ARP main studs today along with one of the adjustable cam sprockets (go figure). I had to drill out the oil galley plugs and tap them for threaded plugs. The oil squirters needed a good soaking in carb cleaner. They actually squirt now! After doing that, I thoroughly cleaned the block today (Gunk followed by soap and high pressure water). Between compressed air and a heat gun, I got everything dried out. I masked all of the necessary surfaces and shot a light coat of dull aluminum engine enamel on the block and front cover. The cylinder bores were coated with the Boeing moisture displacement stuff and the whole thing is now tightly bagged on the engine stand. Tomorrow I will do the pre-assembly cleaning of the crank and head. I think I'm going to run the pistons back to the machine shop as they didn't get the ring grooves perfectly clean.

    Raceline should be getting back to me tomorrow with pricing on an updated baffle and crank scraper for my wet sump. The new Cosworth oil pump came in yesterday. It has the same Ford part number. What's different? The machine shop sent the engine home with a generic set of bearings and gaskets (probably Chinese). I need to source a better set of standard size crank bearings. Slow but steady progress.
    Last edited by Papak; March 4th, 2015 at 09:15 PM.

  16. #36
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    I have the alignment tools, in case you need them.

    /Magnus F.

  17. #37
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    Jan 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by magnusfeuer View Post
    I have the alignment tools, in case you need them.

    /Magnus F.
    If you need a Raceline Water rail for your engine
    - I have one for the Duratec

  18. #38
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    I plan on using an electric water pump so I think I will be able to get by without the water rail. As this is a "wide body" chassis, I want to get the motor installed before I commit to the placement of the external components (water pump, Accusump, oil filter, etc.). Thanks, I'll bear it in mind if I end up going that way.

  19. #39
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    A good source for the friction washers? Apparently they aren't a Ford part.

  20. #40
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    Cosworth Torrance
    3031 Fujita Street
    Torrance
    CA 90505
    United States
    T +1 310 534-1390
    F +1 310 534-2631

    It's been several years since I purchased any Duratec parts from them, but they should still keep spares. They also carried a greater variety of cam buckets than Ford.

    /Magnus F.

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