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Thread: Cosworth CSR260 Duratec rebuild/swap into S3

  1. #1
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    Default Cosworth CSR260 Duratec rebuild/swap into S3

    I finally have some time to start on my long awaited Cosworth 2.3L Duratec rebuild. I bought an engine that came from a CSR260 which had spun a rod bearing on #2 cylinder. It looks like low oil was the cause. For reference, it's a base CSR260 engine, consisting of:

    Cosworth 12.0 CR forged pistons
    Cosworth rings
    Cosworth/Carillo rods
    Cosworth HD oil pump
    Cosworth/Titan internal 2 stage dry sump
    Modine oil cooler, High flow fuel injectors and rail
    Cosworth CNC head (not the race extruded full CNC head)
    Cosworth 2nd stage cams, race valve springs
    Cosworth light weight flywheel
    Cosworth/Caterham 2 piece roller barrels

    Some pics to start



    I started disassembly right away to see what else was damaged and needs replacing



    Here is the big end of #2, you can see it scored the journals on the crankshaft:


    The other rod bearings were about to fail as well


    Took the head apart:


    Quite a bit of carbon deposit for 9000 miles, although probably 50% of it were hard track miles:


    Pistons were a bit dirty with some debris on it, but not bad overall:

  2. #2
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    After close inspection, I'm replacing:

    Cosworth rod
    Cosworth rings
    New 2.3 ranger crankshaft
    All new main and rod bearings
    ARP main, rod, head studs
    New friction washers and bolts
    All gaskets and seals

    I'm also sending off everything to be cleaned including head, block, dry sump pan. The other 3 rods and pistons will be fluxed and checked for cracks. The same machine shop is also honing the cylinder walls. Once I receive the crankshaft, I'll have the whole rotating assembly balanced.

    As far as swap parts go I need:

    Engine mounts/brackets
    Duratec headers (will reuse my existing Titanium ammo can)
    Dry sump tank
    Modify the hard oil lines on existing dry sump pan
    Duratec bell housing with slave/release bearing
    New clutch/pressure plate
    New water rail
    Caterham engine harness
    MBE 9A4 ECU
    Uprated fuel pump
    Oil catch can
    Throttle cable... and probably lots of other little things I can't think of right now
    Last edited by vstryker; January 13th, 2016 at 05:45 PM.

  3. #3
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    I still have that water rail if you need one

    Hayden

  4. #4
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    Very cool to see one of these apart. Good luck with your build.

    If you have any need/desire for the Caterham dry sump bell housing setup let me know. I have all the parts that come with the CSR chassis kit (no oil pan). I also have a full CSR exhaust system (head to muffler, w/cat). I was intending on using some of it for my build, but let me know what you might be able to use.

    Daniel

  5. #5
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    Some parts have arrived:

    Cosworth rod & piston rings
    Clevite H rod & main bearings
    ARP fasteners all around
    New 2.3 Ranger crankshaft
    Intake, exhaust seals along with other gaskets, seals
    Cam bolts, crank pulley bolt & friction washers







    I sent off the new crank, flywheel, clutch cover, and pulley to have it balanced. Also, the rods, pistons, rings, wrist pins will be balanced as well. The pistons and rods set were about 1-2 grams off from another which is within cosworth tolerances but Im expecting them to be within less than a gram once done.

    I'll pick up the cleaned block & head this weekend. Then the bell housing & dry sump tank should be arriving next week. Still trying to see if there's an easy button for the engine loom, I don't think I have the time and patience to rewire & repin.

    I thought about having my 6speed rebuilt since it will be out with the engine. 2nd & 3rd can be stiff and I sometimes grind 3rd when shifting too fast. Anyone local can do it? if not, I'll do it myself but where to get the syncros & stuff for the caterham 6speed?
    Last edited by vstryker; January 15th, 2016 at 02:23 PM.

  6. #6
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    Very interested, I sent you a pm. Hopefully you have the elusive black swirl tower that goes on top of the csr bell housing


    Quote Originally Posted by TurboWood View Post
    Very cool to see one of these apart. Good luck with your build.

    If you have any need/desire for the Caterham dry sump bell housing setup let me know. I have all the parts that come with the CSR chassis kit (no oil pan). I also have a full CSR exhaust system (head to muffler, w/cat). I was intending on using some of it for my build, but let me know what you might be able to use.

    Daniel

  7. #7
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    Van

    You do know about what moose calls the 'jesus' bolt that holds the cam gear onto the crank?

    Tighten to some high value, and 1/4 turn more if I recall.

    The bolt is a one time use.

    Doug

  8. #8
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    Yes, I got that crank bolt/washer. I spoke with Kevin, "Papak" on the boards & he said they it was fairly easy to tighten it up. He mentioned he used the timing bolt to secure the crank at TDC, tightened to 75ftlbs & another 90 degrees... All pushing against the timing bolt. Hopefully it's as easy as it sounds because I've read that it sometimes require 2 ppl with a special 3 ft extension tool.

    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Liedblad View Post
    Van

    You do know about what moose calls the 'jesus' bolt that holds the cam gear onto the crank?

    Tighten to some high value, and 1/4 turn more if I recall.

    The bolt is a one time use.

    Doug

  9. #9
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    I would not use the timing bolt method.

    I have done this a couple of times, always with two people. One holding the crank by the flywheel, the other on the wrench.

    It is not difficult doing it this way.

    I will come down and help if you need it.

    Doug

  10. #10
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    I am with Doug here. I read posts from several people who bent the timing pin even when tightening the cam bolts not the crank bolt (which has much higher torque). If you bend it really good you may have to cut it off from the inside to get out again. That is for a Zetec but I guess the same applies to a Duratec. For my engine I blocked the flywheel with a clamp while tightening that bolt.
    Last edited by slomove; January 16th, 2016 at 06:52 PM.

  11. #11
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    I might take you up on your offer Doug, thanks. You guys are right, I had doubts about the timing bolt being strong enough & ill block the flywheel as well.

    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Liedblad View Post
    I would not use the timing bolt method.

    I have done this a couple of times, always with two people. One holding the crank by the flywheel, the other on the wrench.

    It is not difficult doing it this way.

    I will come down and help if you need it.

    Doug

  12. #12
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    Got the block, head and rotating assembly back today. Everything was cleaned and cylinders freshly honed





    New crank balanced and journals micro polished:


    The pistons, rings, wrist pins were all balanced to within +-0.25 grams!!! That's right, a 1/4 of a gram. I weighed them all and according to my scale they were exactly the same


    Same story with the rods, both the big end and wrist pin end were balanced separately to keep it perfectly balanced, and all weigh exactly the same:


    Check out the flywheel after being balanced, I thought it was around 9 pounds but the scale says otherwise


    I fitted the new rings onto the recently cleaned pistons with reference to the orientation of each ring as set by the Cosworth manual


    They did an amazing job of cleaning the old valves. I was surprised they got it this clean as it looked brand new



    Here is how they looked before, more on why I think it was so full of carbon deposits later.

  13. #13
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    Hayden, I was gone take it off your hands but after seeing how Magnus had to cut a few tabs off of the head, I hesitated and decided to go the CSR route instead.

    Quote Originally Posted by tipridr View Post
    I still have that water rail if you need one

    Hayden

  14. #14
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    Yes- its a bit of a challenge to fit that part- definitely not plug and play

  15. #15
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    Taking a close look at the intake and exhaust ports on the head, I noticed that the casting isn't as clean as it should be. I know the only machine work Cosworth did was CNC the combustion cambers and maybe a slight port. After all, this is not the full on CNC extruded race head that they offer, where everything is CNC ported. So I took the dremel out and started to work. I was extremely careful not to enlarge or change the shape on any of the ports as this will affect the flow. I basically ground down and smoothed out the casting by polishing it slightly, I would say maybe equivalent of a mild stage 1 port and polish. I tried my best to make sure whatever I did on one port, that it was even all the way across. Even if it didn't make a difference in the flow, it sure as hell looked much nicer after a few hours of elbow grease.

    Before and after:






    Finished exhaust ports


    Close up of CNC combustion camber
    Last edited by vstryker; January 22nd, 2016 at 10:38 AM.

  16. #16
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    Van

    Looks good to me. Current wisdom is you don't want them mirror smooth like in the old days. It adds turbulence or some such.

    YMMV and this opinion is worth what you paid for it.

    Doug

  17. #17
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    Next up was assembling the head. Installed new valve stem oil seals on both intake and exhaust. Reinstalled oversized 31mm exhaust and 36mm intake valves. I heard Cosworth says you don't really need to lap new valves onto their seat. But since this is a rebuild, it was an easy decision to grind and lap the valves onto the seat to ensure a good tight seal. Perhaps that is why there were so much carbon deposits on top of the valves when I first took the head apart, maybe it wasn't sealing as tightly as it should be from the factory.

    A bit of grinding and rolling the lapping tool. Didn't take me long, maybe 5 minutes per valve.



    Continued with head assembly, this tool makes it so easy. After the valve stem oil seals went in, then it was the valves, valve springs, retainers and their locks. Oh yea, I used graphite moly assembly lube for the head.


    After a few hours, the head was complete minus the cams. When I took the head apart, I made sure I put the same tappets in the same exact place as I did not change the cams or ground new seats so the lash should be the same. A quick lash check on a few and I called it a day.

  18. #18
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    Ok, time for a little update:

    After completing the head, I started working on the bottom end. Installed pistons with new rings:


    New mains and thrust bearings installed into block, along with crankshaft. I did not use the plastigauge to measure the tolerances between the mains and and journals, I just used a micrometer instead since they were both new and each was well within the middle of the specs. Torqued in sequence of 20, 40, then 60 ftlbs with arp studs. Reading up on other builds, I know that a lot of people have trouble with the studs getting in the way of the dry sump windage tray. To solve this, you have to make sure the studs and nuts are flush as in the picture. I did a dry mounting of the dry sump pan and all is good.



    When it came to installing the pistons and rods to the crank, all was smooth until I came across this:



    I had ordered 4 sets of Clevite CB1838H and 3 of them were the correct ones, the other was something totally different, even though the box says CB1838H on all of them. It was wider by a few millimetres and had a notch in it, needless to say, I sent them right back and Amazon had the correct ones sent out in 3 days. With the correct big end shells, again arp bolts on the connecting rods, the piston assembly was complete.


  19. #19
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    I was finally able to get the missing pieces of my cosworth/Titan CSR dry sump. It is a 2 stage system with an integrated bell housing tank & swirl tower. Originally, i had planned to use an R400 bell housing & an external dry sump system because I could not source the swirl tower. Luckily a member who built a CSR chassis but is going with a different engine had one for sale. It is quite a bit more expensive but the whole unit is nicely integrated.

    It uses the uprated oil pump and a scavenging pump, which is driven from the same oil pump gear. The main pressure pump is on the right while the gears to drive the scavenge pump is on the bottom. There are 2 scavenge suctions on the pan, one in the front & one in the the back.



    The scavenge pump sucks oil from the pan & discharges it to the top of the swirl tower. The tower sits on top of the bell tank assembly and aerates & swirls the oil downwards to the tank. From the bottom of the bell tank, there is a suction line that goes to pressure pump which gets oil to the engine.

    Here is the pan all bolted up, the hard oil line connections all have double o rings. From this pic, the left is the suction to the main oil pressure pump & the left is the discharge of the scavenge pump going to the swirl tower.



    A pic of the 2 one-time use friction washers. One on the inside and other on the outside.



    The bell tank housing side. Again suction to main pump is on the left while right is the discharge of the scavenge pump.



    Another reason why I went with the CSR setup is that the slave & release bearing is also integrated and makes for a very clean install.

  20. #20
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    Special shout out to Bruce at Beachman Racing for helping me with the build so far. A wealth of knowledge in all things Caterham, especially CSR related. First class outstanding service! Bruce not only quickly replies to my countless emails, calls & questions, but the prices on the parts he has are very reasonable as well. He's also currently helping me with the crossover loom.

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